Monday 13 June 2011

Top 5 things to eat heartily in Boston & Cape Cod

I'm back - and definitely bigger - after a truly gastronomic trip to New England. Beautiful weather, boisterous locals and big portions just about sums up this little corner of the States. We ate long and we ate hard - here's a summary of some not-to-be-missed local eateries and eats:

Clam chowder
Why have I wasted my time with any other soup? Oh creamy, be-clammed gloop of loveliness, you have ruined me for all other broths. We ate this liberally out of mugs, with a side of oyster crackers, in both Boston and Cape Cod, but the best version was in the Black Dog Tavern in Vineyard Haven, Martha's Vineyard.


Canolli
Fat cigar-shaped shells (chocolate dipped or not - your choice) filled with cream, custard, ricotta, chocolate cream, chocolate mousse or... the list goes on. The Italian North End area of Boston provided the greatest selection, namely at Modern Pastry Shop or the more traditional Mike's Pastry (we tried both) where the queues were literally out the door.

Lobster Rolls
In London, lobster is a delicacy. In New England, it's a God given right. We did not see one menu sans lobster throughout the region, including one memorable lobster-stuffed chicken in Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard. But no dish could match the power, the sheer juicy, mayonnaisey, messy joy of the basic lobster mayo roll. Our first one was enjoyed in the foodie mecca of Faneuil Hall in Boston and we didn't look back. Another truly memorable version served on a soft, fresh, lightly toasted brioche was enjoyed in the harbourside Legal Sea Foods on our last day - bittersweet indeed.

Softshell Crab
Now my favourite London place to enjoy this eight-legged delight is Ealing Broadway's Hare & Tortoise, but New England is in a softshell league of its own, particularly as the critters were in season (June). I was served a curried softshell crab laksa in a vessel that would have qualified as a salad bowl in any British home. And ate it all - plus starter and dessert. Try Pearl in Nantucket for this and many other seafood gems, including fabulous sushi.

Oysters
As with lobster, it's all about the oysters in this part of the world. We had a double whammy of oyster magic on our second night in the Back Bay area of Boston at Island Creek Oyster Bar. Deep fried oyster sliders to whet the appetite (little 'burgers' on toasted brioche buns - heavennnnn) and then half a dozen of the most exquisite oysters I have ever tasted, accompanied by their recommended shot of vodka.


Special mention should be made of some pretty spectacular brekkies. The legendary Charlie's Sandwich Shoppe kicked off our holiday with blueberry pancakes the size of my head plus bacon plus lashings of syrup plus home fries - way to start the day heartily, if not heart failurely. I also fell hard for the banana bread on Nantucket, enjoyed the same way as Sydney locals do - slightly warm, no butter, with your morning coffee.

Cycling the coastal paths on Cape Cod & walking the Freedom Trail on Boston helped to work off the above grub, but essentially I'm living it large after one of the greatest culinary weeks ever - go Patriots.